On completing packing the first part of today's hike was over a pass. The path petered out and I entered the clouds, glad of my GPS in the reduced visibility. Lacking a path it was a matter of pushing through clumps of heather and vegetation trying to avoid the soggy areas of moss and peat where one's boots could disappear, and also the hidden holes and trenches made by streams of flowing water. My trekking poles helped greatly in checking out the ground ahead, levering me over streams and pushing me up banks or stopping me sliding down them. Although it had been raining overnight I suspect the area was always wet, the mosses retaining the water. Pink spotted orchids brightened my way as I stumbled along. A trio of deers watched me from an outcrop of rock before dissolving into the mist. As I clambered through the rough ground without a path it confirmed that I had picked the best spot to camp last night. Due to the wet and uneven ground there would not have been another suitable spot for a couple of hours of tiring walking.
Coming down from the pass was equally difficult, trying to pick the easiest way down but at least I dropped below the clouds. Clouds which gave intermittent showers throughout the day. I had all the waterproofs but I was hot and sweating inside them, and put them on and off several times as the showers came and went. After a deer fence a path appeared, which eventually improved to a rough track then a better track. On the way a series of large diameter pipes were being laid, maybe for a hydroelectric scheme. They were made of black plastic and connected together by some kind of plastic welding. Later there was an area where trees had been felled. There were signs saying "No access to unauthorised persons", as there was clearly no work in progress I of course ignored them.
I walked along a short section of a quiet single track road in Glen Garry, watched by a deer. The area was spotted with "No Camping" signs. Despite the remoteness I was impressed that one of the few vehicles on the road was a Morrisons van, delivering groceries a long way from the nearest supermarket. Leaving the road I climbed up to the next pass. This time a path took me there. After the pass there was a descent into a wide, remote valley, a river curling along its base. I crossed the river on larger pebbles and then started on the climb up to the next and final pass of the day. Sections of pathless moor made for hard work, and I was pleased to see a bridge carrying the old road to Skye. Newer highways now carry the traffic, but the old, single track road provided an easy walking surface down to the main road, and then it was a short walk to the Cluanie Inn where I had a room booked. However before going in, the "Bakehouse" opposite exerted an irresistible pull. I had a headache, on and off all day, and I knew a coffee would help. To go with it I had a hunk of "Scottish Bread Pudding", delicious! The Inn was quite nice too, and in a very remote spot. Communication was a little difficult as we all had our masks on, muffling our words, so we all had to speak extra loudly. Once I was safely inside heavy rain began.
Later, in a gap in the downpour, a deer stood outside my window. A few lads were photographing it while it stood there. One went too close and the deer walked away, turned and bounded off.
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