Saturday, April 24, 2021

Clovelly to Barnstaple: LEJoG Day 9

A long day of four parts: a bluebell wood, a rollercoaster up and down hills, across farmland to Bideford, and on the flat Tarka trail.

My tent survived the gusting wind of last night, despite manically flapping nylon is surprisingly strong and stayed intact. Answering a call of nature during the night I found the pegs holding firm and the moon red as it was finishing its journey across the sky. 

Morning walk through one of the many kissing gates

My approach to Clovelly was beside parkland of some stately home and by a wooden shelter carved with Angel's wings in the 19th century. Pheasants screeched and birds sang their morning choruses. Arriving at Clovelly at 7:30 am I found this "unspoilt" village and major tourist attraction did not open for a couple more hours, so I continued onwards on the Hobby Drive, a rough road through woods. The coast path continued through more woodland, full of primroses and bluebells, brightened by the morning sun, a major change from the treeless Cornish part of my trek.

A walk through a bluebell wood

Bucks Mills was a village, smaller but looking just as charming as Clovelly, with a small house associated with two artists. Too small for a café though. After the Peppercombe valley, the path left the woods and climbed up and down hills where they intersected the coast. I met a man who said "snap" on approaching as he had the same trekking poles and backpack as me, right down to the fanny bag. (For gear enthusiasts they were Black Diamond Distance Carbon Z poles, superlight, fixed length and ideal for long distance romps, and an Atom packs Mo Rucksack and "The Roos" fanny bag, Atom packs make lightweight rucksacks that actually fit you here in the UK). Another walker complained of the hills, and I had to agree, I was becoming tired, various parts of me were complaining and I still had a long way to go.

Just before Westward Ho! (the only place name in the UK with an exclamation mark) I turned off towards Bideford crossing a number of fields on footpaths. Bideford has streets of small, slightly old fashioned shops including I am glad to say a coffee shop where I gained my caffeine fix for the day.

Coffee and cake in Bideford

I crossed the Torridge on a multi arched stone bridge and proceeded up the Tarka trail. This was an old railway line, lovely and flat which my sore feet really appreciated. Also a cycle path I saw a number of bottoms of various shapes and sizes pass me, I had to keep to the side to avoid a bike colliding with me. I am never sure which side of a cycle track I should walk on, any ideas anyone? There were a few decaying ships by the banks of the river either abandoned or being renovated. After the village of Instow, the Tarka Trail borders marshes and reclaimed farmland. 

The Tarka Trail

I turned off to reach the Cedars hotel, where I have now enjoyed a meal, outside in accordance with Covid regulations. It is cold but busy, everyone is enjoying a Saturday night out, the ladies in their smartest finery which was often hidden behind insulated jackets.

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