Bude to Clovelly: LEJoG Day 8

A tiring but sunny day of many climbs and cliff top vistas.

Thankfully, the cattle stayed away from my tent last night, not eating or accidentally stepping on it. Blustery wind however, made it a struggle to safely pack it away. After the first climbs of the day I had a close view of the white satellite dishes and domes of the secret government listening post, searching the airwaves for terrorist plots and the like behind two high fences. 

GCHQ listening post.

Then it was into more, multiple, massive descents and ascents, up and down valleys, as I crossed from Cornwall to Devon. Somewhat remote there were no cafes for coffee in prospect for many miles, but the weather was sunny if breezy and it was dry. Some of the steeply sloping paths would be treacherous when wet and muddy, as reported by an earlier walker. It was a reason I had brought two trekking poles with me as they help provide balance on slippery terrain. In the event they were extremely useful for providing an extra "push" to get up the steep hills and to support my knees a little on descents. Part way up one hill I came across Ronald Duncan's hut. A playwright, poet and journalist, he used to write here. Now it is open during the day for walkers to rest and shelter from the weather. The visitor's book showed I was not the only one passing by on the way to John o'Groats this year. As the owner had been a poet I left a little ditty:

After so many climbs

My body pines

For some flat paths.

My wish was partly granted as there was a period without any large climbs. I also took an alternate route at one place, down a valley to avoid the strong wind on the cliff tops which was trying to unbalance me. The views of lines of cliffs continued to be magnificent, with the flat topped island of Lundy visible in the distance.

Hartland Quay had a restaurant which I was very pleased to find open for lunch. Unfortunately I had confused Hartland Quay with Hartland Point, so I had not walked as far as I had thought. The landlord told me the Point was another two and a half hours walk away (maybe a slight exaggeration). Still, I enjoyed the fish and chips although being outside due to Covid regulations and using disposable containers caused some difficulties. Erratic gusts of wind would suddenly lift any loose napkins, salt sachets and cardboard containers emptied of food into the air, and rapidly propel them across the ground, resulting in me and other customers running about trying to retrieve them. My slice of lemon was blown into a rucksack pocket and the little foil wrapped chocolate that came with my coffee completely disappeared. 

Hartland Quay is on the headland in the middle of the photo

Another long climb (towards the rising moon)

More painful ascents followed to Hartland Point (marked only by an aerial and a car park), then the going was a little more reasonable as I headed towards Clovelly. Time was moving on and I was tired. Unlike earlier parts of the coast path, on this section the trail went through fields beside the cliffs, or most recently through bluebell woods on steep slopes housing pheasants. Not wishing to upset any farmers or gamekeepers and unable to find any flat pitches in the woods I found it difficult to decide where to sleep. Eventually I chose a flat spot by a bench high above the sea. Unfortunately the breeze is pretty fresh and gusting, causing an alarming flapping of my tent. I am hoping it survives the night.