Backpackers often compare "gear". This morning a fellow camper came over and commented on my Terra Nova Laser Compact Tent (designed in Derbyshire) versus his Swedish Hilleberg (Hilleberg owners always think their tents are the best), and his American Gossamer Gear stayless rucksack versus my single stay Atom Pack (sewn in the Lake District). Then I went for a full English breakfast in the Golden Lion pub.
Today's walk was across the high fells, rough grass dotted with sheep, pasture bordered by dry stone walls topped by lines of barbed wire. Few buildings were visible but looking down into the folds of the landscape, in the distant valley bottoms there were a few small farmsteads among stands of trees.
Early on, a brook disappeared down a deep gash in the limestone which had surfaced out of the grass. Peering down into the depths, passed ferns growing from the rocks, a cave system seemed be accepting the flow. Long Gill was a deep, tree lined gorge slashed through the landscape. On the rocks at the top a bird, a dipper I think, performed a little dance for me, looking one way and then the other, its wings like a ballerina's arms.
As the track was good, easy walking on some ancient trails, I reached my destination of Hawes unexpectedly early. It gave an opportunity to visit the Wensleydale Creamery, first the coffee shop and then the "Wensleydale experience" which explained the history and process of making the Dale's most famous product. Wallace and Gromit, celebrity lovers of Wensleydale cheese, would have been impressed.
Tonight I am staying at the Hawes Youth Hostel at the edge of town. As the largest town for a while I mingled with the tourist crowds to replenish my supplies. As always I bought too much, a weight I now have to carry for several days!
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