Malham to Horton-in-Ribblesdale: LEJoG Day 35

Malham Cove this morning and the mountain of Pen-y-Ghent this afternoon on a day when sunlight alternated with shadow from passing clouds.

After leaving my youth hostel the Pennine Way took me to Malham Cove, a semi circular cliff of considerable height. Water emanated from its base supplying the small river running through Malham. On the limestone wall of the cove a climber was working his way up, using anchor bolts attached to the cliff. His rope was held by another, standing on what looked like a precarious ledge.

Climber at Malham Cove.

View down the dry valley above Malham Cove.

I continued on my way around the side of the cove to reach its top, where an extensive limestone pavement stretched out, formed by rain dissolving the rock along cracks to give regular blocks. I continued up the dry valley behind the cove with its closely cropped grass between outcrops of rock and with a second smaller cliff to work around.

Beyond the valley the land opens out and Malham Tarn, and the green trees on its far side, was visible. On the north side among the trees there is a Field Study Centre in an old building which the track passes. Old trees have been turned into sculptures of different animals to amuse the passing ramblers.

Leaving the trees I walked up another dry valley of sheep cropped grass, then climbed up the side of Fountains Fell. On top of the ridge a sign warned of open mine shafts. An area surrounded by red and white plastic tape was an obvious attraction. The tape marked an old shaft of significant depth (i.e. deeper than I could see). Its walls were made of the local stone and the top edge looked as if it could easily crumble if you stood too close.

Yorkshire dry stone wall.

Pen y Ghent.

After descending into the next valley it was time to tackle the biggest mountain of the day, Pen-y-Ghent. The final climb was rather steep, up steps, then up the ledges of rock. From the top there were good views of the surrounding hills. Pen-y-Ghent is one of summits that are part of the Three Peaks Challenge, the other two are Ingleborough and Whernside. All three must be climbed in under 12 hours. 

From Pen-y-Ghent it was downhill to the village of Horton in Ribblesdale where I am now camped. The campsite had an unusual way of keeping campers apart. Grass was cut to different lengths with longer grass in squares where you put your tent (on which a useful picnic bench was also placed) separated by "paths" with shorter cut grass. While I was looking with sadness at the closed sign on the Pen-y-Ghent café, one of the hikers I have been passing over the last few days said "hello". At the campsite another Pennine Way walker I keep meeting arrived shortly after me. Both are only doing part of the Pennine Way. Inevitably as you walk a popular long distance path like the Pennine Way (in the most popular direction) you keep seeing the same people. It can be quite useful as you can swap information and views on the path and discuss "gear". I am now in the Golden Lion Hotel after a three course meal, good job I am walking good distances to justify the calories.