My day began with a continental breakfast at the Youth Hostel. There were only five people staying, including myself, which gave the cook time to arrange a variety of fruit slices for my breakfast in an exceedingly artistic display.
Setting off across fields I saw signs inviting people to a sheepdog demonstration later that day, which made me wish I was staying longer. Another temptation to delay was the tea room in the village of Hardraw, I could see the cakes through the window. However, still full from breakfast I instead started on the long climb up Shunner Fell. On the way there was a stone barns similar to others I had seen, and admired in the area. It looked like they had been built without cement between the flagstones of which they were constructed.
No rain had been forecast for today but the overcast sky with waves of grey clouds suggested otherwise. Amid a slight drizzle I looked up to where the path was lost in cloud, couples just visible in the distance climbing ever higher. Lapwings flew above me squeaking as I entered moorland in which a sign stated that heather and black grouse were being encouraged, although rough grass and moss seem to predominate. A few small brown birds ran away from me as I passed.
There were several people walking the path today, I pointed out to one couple imprints of Carboniferous period trees on the rocks we were crossing. Another I had met before, they were walking the Pennine Way at a similar pace to me. I saw their orange, rucksack rain covers in the distance and gradually caught up with them. We swapped stories of long distance walks and how we had planned them in lockdown, as well as discussing knee ailments.
The summit of Shunner Fell was wrapped in mist, two couples were having snacks on benches protected from the wind by a stone construction. I did not stop as I planned to patronise a tea shop in Thwaite or Keld. The one in the stone village of Thwaite came first. Motor bikers, walkers and local people were keeping the staff busy, but they still managed me a latte and a slice of fruit cake served with Wensleydale cheese (although I think I was now in Swaledale).
The Pennine Way climbed the valley side before dropping down to a scenic river and waterfalls among trees by Keld. Another long climb into the moorland took me to the Tan Hill Inn.
The Tan Hill Inn will be known to all walkers on the Pennine Way. It is a remote pub, high in the fells, so high it is the highest pub in the British Isles. It once served a mining community that has long gone, now it serves tourists and hikers. I was here several years ago, and it was a charming if slightly ramshackle affair. For many years it was run by a welcoming lady, but in 2018 it changed ownership. The bed & breakfast rooms have been upgraded and were now beyond the price range of most Pennine Way walkers, indeed the high prices were the talk of the trail. I was camping but had booked for dinner, wise as it was busy with waiting staff scurrying around, however the food was delivered promptly. As the evening progressed and the diner rush ended, things relaxed and there was an "open mike" night, although my enjoyment of the singing was slightly spoilt by the unending chatter of two men on the next table (the wife was ignored). How do people find so much that they must talk about?
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