Edale to Crowden: LEJoG Day 31

The first day on the Pennine Way and a classic hike over Kinder Scout and Bleaklow.

Many books have been written on the Pennine Way and they all spend much time dealing with Kinder Scout and Bleaklow, for both scenic and historical reasons. To reach the first of these I walked out of Edale across fields of sheep, paving slabs initially showing me the way. Upper Booth National Trust campsite was on the path, it had a sign stating it was full, and I was worried whether Crowden campsite, my destination for tonight, would have room for me. After passing some stone buildings advertising portrait photographs I followed a track up to my first, famous obstacle, Jacob's Ladder. This long flight of steps, constructed of blocks of rock, roughly hewn, climbs steeply up to the edge of Kinder Scout. My effort was rewarded by a view from the top down Edale, a beautiful "U" shaped valley, typical of formation by a glacier in the last Ice Age, and a contrast to the narrow valleys of the Derbyshire Dales that I had recently walked through. 

Following the edge of the Kinder Scout plateau, the Pennine Way wound around rounded boulders of gritstone. Outcrops of large blocks of rock, smoothed by time and erosion, stood sentinel at the top of the escarpment. Extensive views stretched to the city of Manchester and beyond although distant colours were washed out by the grey haze. Kinder Scout is famous for the mass trespass of 1932. At that time the public were not allowed in the area, it was the preserve of the landed gentry, so when the protesters climbed up to where I walked today, they were opposed by gamekeepers and a number were jailed. Thanks to such pressure, most of it more legally applied, National Parks and public access to the countryside was achieved for everyone and not just the wealthy few.

Jacob's ladder.

Walk along Kinder Scout.

Leaving Kinder Scout there was a long length of path across moorland, paved with slabs of sandstone, that leads to Snake Pass. Some see this as a boring stretch but if the view is not enough the paving slabs are of interest themselves for two reasons. Firstly, sedimentary features such as ripple marks can be seen which relate to their geological origins in a shallow sea. There are also impressions left by wood or other vegetation, and evidence of burrows. Secondly, they were once part of one of the many mills that  dotted the area in the industrial revolution, I am told they were specifically from the floors of the mills. Evidence can be seen of their previous incarnation such as rectangular slots, small metal pipes that pierce the stone, and parallel lines, maybe cut to make the floor less slippery. Some have complained that the slabs make the path less natural, less of a challenge. The alternative is wading through mud created by the many walkers, day trippers and long distance hikers. For myself I much prefer the line of slabs, neat but roughly shaped, each one different to the next. Far better a line of second hand flags than gloopy mud, the path eroded ever wider by the feet of fellow walkers.

The walk towards Bleaklow.

Impressions left by vegetation in the flags used to "pave" the Pennine Way.

I overtook a group of youngsters completing a Duke of Edinburgh gold award. Keeping up a good pace I was having trouble keeping ahead of them (had they speeded up after I passed them?), so I stopped for a snack at Snake Pass where the A57 road crosses the Pennines. There is always a line of cars parked at Snake Pass and, just like the last time I walked this way, I hoped that an Ice Cream vendor would recognise the potential of the spot. Sadly this has yet to happen so I ate a few dried apricots. 

Bleaklow came next, a large expanse of moor draped over a ridge, cut by a deep valley to the north. Many people were out trying to reach the site of a 1948 aircraft crash. Much of the wreckage is still visible I understand, however, I stuck with the Pennine Way. Last time I walked this way I missed a turning, and spent some time getting back on the right track, but this time I had my GPS to guide me and steadily made my way across the moors and down to the Crowden reservoir. 

The route crossed to the opposite side of the reservoir and then followed the northern shore through a narrow strip of woodland. Shortly after I left the Pennine Way to reach Crowden itself, which consists of a few houses, a campsite and what was once a Youth Hostel, but is no longer. Although the campsite was nominally full, the helpful manager understood the issues facing Pennine Way walkers and found a spot for me and my small tent under some trees with a few other backpackers. Good man!