Tuesday, May 25, 2021

Kington to Knighton: LEJoG Day 21

A change in the weather brought intermittent sun and no rain as the path followed the bank and ditch of Offa's Dyke.

After four days with significant rainfall, it was pleasant to wake up to sunshine which meant the tent was dry when I packed it away. Sunlight lights up the landscape. Today the new leaves of the trees shone lime green where the sun's rays penetrated them, rather than the drab colours of recent cloud filled days. The blues of the bluebells were brighter and fields of yellow buttercups shimmered in the breeze among the rich greens of the waving grass. However, the warmth of the sun soon disappeared as dark clouds crossed in front of it, fortunately none dropped any rain.

Field of buttercups.

A walk through sunlight woodland.

Much of today's trip was along the 7th century dyke itself, much of Offa's Dyke Path is not. This ancient construction, allegedly built by King Offa of Mercia (or at least his underlings) now consists of a rounded bank and shallow ditch which snakes across the countryside either covered with grass or topped by trees and bushes. In one place it looked like badgers were trying to excavate it. I wondered whether warriors were stationed on it ready to repel Welsh attacks, or if it was more to control trade and define boundaries, a more peaceful structure. 

The remains of Offa's Dyke.

Today I met a several hikers walking the trail heading south. The change in the weather was commented upon among other pleasantries. One fellow was walking with his dog, a three year old Spaniel. Others were in a group, doing one section of the path at a time, with cars positioned each end. Some had huge packs, others just day packs using a transport service to carry their bags each day.

Approaching Knighton I saw a red kite (as in the bird) being chased around by a group of crows. I cast the crows in the role of the bad guys chasing the poor kite but maybe the crows were protecting their young? The Offa's Dyke Centre in Knighton was sadly closed. Consequently I adjourned to the Clock Tower Tea Room for a pot of tea and a scone. Given I left muddy marks on their carpet I felt obliged to leave a good tip in the saucer left on the counter for the purpose. They did have a sticker in the window saying walkers welcome so I did not feel too bad. I am now at the campsite. A fairly basic affair with one toilet and shower. Check in was conducted by phone, I had already paid in advance. My tent is next to the Heart of Wales railway, a one carriage train has just passed, it is not a busy line. 

I dined out on fish and chips at one of the pubs in Knighton. It is very much a rural community and I noticed a sign on the pub wall designed to discourage the spread of Covid 19 with the message "Social Distance, Keep a cow length between you". Better than some of the signs in Cardiff showing a male and female figure separated by two metres which could send a different message. Most pubs and cafes are keeping some kind of "track and trace" system either taking a name and telephone number or using the NHS App to scan a QR code. With the number of places I am visiting on this trip I worry that due to one of these visits I will be in the same room with someone who tests positive for the virus. Then I could be asked to isolate. That would stop my trip.
 


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