Having ordered breakfast I set off for the dining area only to realise I had forgotten my face mask, needed to meet Covid requirements, so a return to my bedroom was needed before I could tuck into a full English.
Leaving the Youth Hostel I joined many others walking along Hadrian's Wall. Strategically located, often on a cliff top, with extensive areas visible to the north, beyond the boundary of the Roman Empire. After a mile post, a watchtower and some steep ascents and descents I headed north on the Pennine Way from a gap in the long ridge on which the wall stands. Or so I thought, after a little way I realised two footpaths left the gap, and I was on the wrong one, a correction was required. From then on I paid better attention to my GPS, extending my lead on the couple behind me but losing sight of the two men ahead of me. A farmer on his quad bike, told me he was seeing more walkers on the Pennine Way this year. The reason I suggested, was because lockdown restrictions had forced people to stay near home for many months, so they were desperate to cover some ground now restrictions on travel in the UK had been lifted. Alternatively the continuing restrictions on international travel forced people to walk in Britain.
After some fields of rough grazing I entered part of the Kielder Forest, a huge area of commercial forestry dominated by Sikta spruce, a fast growing conifer, but with the occasional Rowan tree sneaking in. Most of the route was on a path through the trees, muddy and wet in place, although there were some interesting flowers such as brown bugle. Seeing a sign for a look out, I followed a side path to see the view. Unfortunately saplings spoilt any vista. I sat down to have a snack but a huge number of tiny midges arrived to snack on me! I hastily packed and left. Later, after leaving the forest I noticed a sign by a farmhouse offering hot and cold drinks and snacks. An outhouse contained the "Pit Stop" where I helped myself to a black coffee and a kitkat from the fridge and in return put a few coins in the tin for donations. It made a welcome break and although some of the seating was not very clean there was plastic seating outside. I have read about such kindness by "Trail Angels" on the Appalachian Trail and other US mega trails, but it is uncommon here in the UK, where maybe we are more suspicious of others.
After a few hours of walking over moors or rough pasture I crested a ridge and saw the small town if Bellingham ahead of me. The cheerful and helpful man at the Camping and Caravan Club campsite went through a comprehensive description of the measures taken to combat Coronavirus including a system of green or red computer displays telling you if you can enter the toilets and a request to spray disinfectant around touch surfaces when you have finished. I am now very full after three courses at "The Cheviot". My waistline has expanded.
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