Some thoughts on the West Highland Way and two days rest: LEJoG Day 59 and 60

While at Fort William I had thought to spend one day climbing Ben Nevis and another as a rest day, but my left knee was causing me concern. As reaching John o'Groats was the primary aim of my trip and not reaching the top of Britain's highest peak, I decided to spend both days resting to avoid putting that objective at risk. It was also an opportunity to resupply and reflect on the West Highland Way. 

The West Highland Way is a popular path, not just with older white men and couples as are some other trails in the UK, but with people of all ages and both sexes, including women on their own. Many people use baggage transfer services. There were campsites, hotels and Bed & Breakfast type accommodation throughout the route, although many seemed heavily booked. Waymarking was good, as were the paths and at 96 miles (154 kilometres), 5 to 8 days walking, it would easily fit in with people's annual leave from work unlike longer hikes. However, apart from the climb out of Glencoe, it does miss out on glorious panoramas from Highland mountain tops by being essentially a low level walk up valleys. This does make it easier for those whose office jobs may mean they are less fit than they would wish. As much of the route is near the main road and railway heading north, it is not a remote or wilderness experience, something other trails in Scotland can offer, albeit requiring greater planning and experience. The main drawback was attack by midges; vicious, tiny biting insects. Principally an issue in the morning and evenings, you could avoid them to a degree by staying at indoor accommodation rather than camping. Wild camping (legal in Scotland) does however offer some great locations, on a beach by the waters of Loch Lomond or up on a ridge with views of distant mountains fading into blue whiteness. I am told the best month to walk the trail is May, to avoid midges and with the possibility of reasonable weather. I might even tackle the route in winter as many of the tracks have good surfaces with bridges provided where needed, although mud would be an issue in places. 

For the start of my blog on the West Highland Way click here.

Fort William itself has supermarkets, chemists, cash machines and accommodation, making it a good place for me to spend time resting and resupplying for the remote stages ahead. However, I am finding it very busy. Much of the accommodation was booked and in the evening many of the pubs and restaurants were full. The limitations of Covid regulations, and maybe businesses having permanently closed by the various lock downs, were part of the reason but even without the pandemic effects, Fort William is a busy tourist spot. It lies beside Loch Linnhe although my walk beside this scenic Loch was spoilt by the busy main road running alongside it. Most visitors seem to congregate on the main cobbled pedestrian street with its cafés, pubs and gift shops. They come in many sizes. Fit, slim people, some still carrying large back packs, visiting for the hiking, mountain climbing or cycling opportunities. Lads on a weekend away, having a few beers and watching the football. Then there are the older, more portly couples, having a holiday by car in the Highlands, maybe with another couple they are friendly with. Normally Fort William would be a popular coach stop, but I am not sure if coach trips are allowed just yet under the Covid restrictions.

Main street in Fort William.

Loch Linnhe.

As well as buying food for the next, more remote stage of my walk, I acquired a knee support and a supply of glucosamine tablets which I hope will help. I have spent a long time looking at my legs. The knee itself does not appear swollen but fluid seems to be accumulating in the calf and foot below it. Googling "one leg swollen" brings up all kinds of dire diagnoses making me wish I had not looked, but I am assuming it is related to some stretched ligament connected to my knee, or maybe the many red spots where the midges have attacked.