Land's End to St Just: LEJoG Day 1

After a long train ride to Penzance I started on my hike along the South West Coast Path, among granite boulders, from Lands End to St Just, a small start on my much longer trek to John o'Groats.

I was surprised to find that there was a direct train from Cardiff to Penzance, convenient but rather slow. We stopped at every station but one on the line. Although much of the scenery was just a blur of  farmland, there was a section after Exeter where the rails followed the edge of the sea, so close that in a few places you could imagine you were actually gliding across the water. Three or four cruise ships were anchored off the coast, idle no doubt due to the Coronavirus. Truro looked attractive as we trundled past on a viaduct, the gothic spires a contrast to the surrounding houses.

Finally reaching Penzance, after a short wait at the station's taxi rank, I was on my way to Land's End. The driver commented that business had thankfully picked up since April 12th when people have finally been able to travel. At the collection of cafe's and shops at Land's End I bought my first Cornish pasty of the walk, chunky with veg and peppery. The famous signpost pointing to John o'Groats, 874 miles away was roped off with signs giving prices for being photographed with it. Not wanting a printed photo I photographed it from a distance and started on the South West Coast Path. Note that 874 miles is the most direct route to John O'Groats, using National Trails and local footpaths where possible it will take me maybe 1215 miles. The South West Coast Path, skirting the coasts of Dorset, Devon and Cornwall was the first of these National Trails, marked by an acorn symbol.

Famous signpost at Land's End

The path wound around the granite boulders (with large feldspar crystals) and steep slopes extending beneath me down to the sea.  At first it was cold in the wind but later it warmed up and I started shedding clothing, piling them up on various straps and pockets of my rucksack. Soon I reached the expanse of sand at Sennen Cove. Plenty of people were out enjoying the weather on the curved beach without it being too crowded. Surfers bobbed in the water, dogs were called and children asked questions of their parents. 

Sennen Cove

After the beaches there was some climbing over boulders as I tried to pick which path was the coast path, not always obvious. Signs warned about mine shafts you could fall down. I peered down one or two that were fenced off, and up some adits driven into the rock. Some slopes were sprinkled with white flowers of various kinds, more than I expected for mid April, bushes of bright yellow gorse enveloped others. The rocks of Lands End and its lighthouse a little out to sea became smaller as I continued up and down along the path.

Old mine shaft

Coast Path

I had managed to book some accommodation at St Just at the Wellington hotel. As the doors of the rooms opened into the backyard, there were no shared spaces so it met the current Covid regulations for England. On phoning the specified telephone number I was directed to my room in a contact-less manner, the key waiting in the door for me. In the village square outside, the pub had opened for outside table service and the fish and chip shop was doing a brisk trade. Although it was a little cold the pint of Tribute Ale tasted good, and the fish and chips were welcome even though I had only walked 11 kilometres today. I have been warned tomorrow's walk will be a little more strenuous...