Before breakfast (provided in a box by a nearby bakery owing to Coronavirus restrictions on indoor dining) I had a walk around St Just. The main action was in a square by the hotel, which was surrounded by grey granite buildings housing a pub, a Coop, various other amenities, and an area where medieval mystery plays were once performed. On the tower of the nearby church, the flag was at half mast as today the funeral of Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, husband of the queen will take place.
Leaving the streets and alleyways of the village I returned to the coast path. Cape Cornwall, a peninsula topped by a chimney was the first landmark. The chimney was once part of a mine. Along the next few kilometres there were the remains of many buildings associated with tin and copper mines. Chimneys and pump houses, built solidly of granite in the 19th century, dot the landscape. Two modern pitheads, built of steel, were also visible, one a heritage centre dedicated to Cornwall's rich mining history. There was also spoil heaps of discarded rocks, old mine shafts enclosed by walls, and frequent warnings of other, unmarked and open shafts.
A long section of more remote coastline lacked any villages, unless you walked inland. Although there were a few small beaches, most of the coast was rocky, the land rising quickly from the sea to the higher, farmed plateau. The path wound around and over granite boulders among the gorse. Yesterday the flurries of white flowers were most distinctive, today yellows were the fashion, primroses, dandelions and celandine dotted with violets smothered the ground. An adder, slithered off the path into the undergrowth as I almost stepped on it. Helpful footbridges were provided across streams but in general the going was tough with many climbs as the path crossed valleys and rose up and down the coastline, at one time closer to the sea, at another on top of the plateau, next to green fields edged by stone walls.
I wanted to camp close to St Ives without actually reaching it as none of its many Bed & Breakfasts were open owing no doubt to the Covid regulations. A fellow backpacker walking the coast path in the other direction warned the path near St Ives was rocky with few possibilities for pitching a tent. Consequently, seeing a flat, grassy area among the gorse I decided to stop and camp although still 3 miles from the town. My pitch was on a little headland behind an outcrop of rock. After a sunny day the skies were now overcast, the sun sending beams of light through distant clouds making pools of silver on the sea. I sat and watched the setting sun throw a narrow carpet of pink topped waves towards me. As it grew darker Cape Cornwall's lighthouse flashed at me periodically as the half moon rose in the sky.
No comments:
Post a Comment