Rising early I walked down the ridge towards Kirk Yetholm with the fields and distant hills of the Scottish Borders spread out before me. The early sun adding depth to the landscape with sharp shadows. Reaching the village well before the Border Inn opened, I had no opportunity to claim my half pint of beer for completing the Pennine Way. A collection of boots were tied to an old plough outside the Inn, presumably by people whose experience walking the Pennine Way persuaded them never to attempt any similar endeavour in the future that would require such footwear. Myself, I had already started the next long distance walk. St Cuthbert's Way joined the Pennine Way shortly before Kirk Yetholm, and I followed it towards Yetholm Town.
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| Yetholm Town, made more attractive by the village store being open for coffee and croissants early in the morning. |
Yetholm Town had an attractive central area of tree lined grass, beside which I was glad to see the village store and post office already open. I bought a cup of coffee (instant coffee to which a machine added hot water), two croissants and, on impulse, a "Singing Hinny". The shopkeeper told me the latter was a Northumberland speciality, a sort of large, round, flat fruit scone. She said it was lovely with butter and jam. I had neither but it made a filling breakfast, so I saved the croissants for lunch.
St Cuthbert's Way started along roads. I had thought today would avoid steep climbs.... but was wrong. St Cuthbert's Way left the road and climbed steeply up a range of mountains, with a number of summits, the highest was called Wideopen hill. My reward for the climb was the vista over the borders.
Returning to valley level I walked into the village of Morebattle. St Cuthbert's Coffee Shop was located in an old church at the beginning of the village. A collie dog welcomed me in for a coffee and cake. Serving me was the man restoring the building. Half the floor was missing, and there was a rowing boat where it should have been. He explained that before the Covid pandemic groups of theological students, many from overseas, would walk St Cuthbert's Way. In the old church he wanted to create a space where they could stop and have a meal, then celebrate communion around the fishing boat, as Jesus might have done with his disciples by the Sea of Galilee. He explained St Cuthbert was born on a farm and on seeing a vision joined the monastery at Melrose and began ministering to people in the area. His life took him to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, where he eventually died. St Cuthbert's Way is a pilgrimage route from Melrose to Holy Island. I was travelling the opposite direction, and so exchanged "hellos" with a number of people, couples and groups, coming towards. Leaving a donation for his restoration work, I continued along straight, single track roads between fields of wheat and oats, on paths around fields of oilseed rape, and through slim, rectangular woodlands between trees of pine, oak, beech and birch. Cessford Castle was on the way, the ruins of a 15th century "L" shaped tower. Wild roses and many other flowers brightened my way.
I diverted off St Cuthbert's Way on the Borders Abbeys Way to reach the town of Jedburgh and my bed for the night. After some effort, as my phone was not picking up a signal and the hotel was locked, I managed to gain entry to my room. I ate at a nearby restaurant. It was one of those places where the description of a dish took up more space than the food itself. Tomorrow I will be looking for somewhere with "hiker" portion size!
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