Saturday, June 19, 2021

Some thoughts on the Pennine Way and a rest day in Jedburgh: LEJoG Day 46

Having finished the Pennine Way yesterday, today seemed a good time to review, rest and plan for the next two weeks.

This is the second time I have completed the Pennine Way, on the other occasion I was walking in the opposite direction about a month earlier in the year. My view of the long distance walk has generally remained the same, which is that a lot of it, possibly too much, was on fairly featureless moors. However the weather was slightly better this time and the paths certainly drier which made for a more pleasant journey. Possibly I have been spoilt by my walks on the continent where, in addition to the scenery there is the additional interest of different food, drink, culture, architecture, language and history. Britain is maybe just somewhere that I am too familiar with to be overawed. However there are some glorious stretches of this National Trail; the Malham cove section, Nick's Cup (not hidden in the mist on this trip), Kinder Scout, and the Cheviots to name only a few. I also had longer conversations with people this time, probably because I was walking from south to north. Most people walk in this direction so you may meet the same people a number of times, and may end up walking a little way beside them discussing subjects of mutual concern, such as knee problems. Campsites were also a good place to view other people's tents and exchange comments on them. Apart from the day from Byrness my daily stages were the same as those on the National Trails website. These were about right for me.

Jedburgh Abbey

Today I explored the sights of Jedburgh, or at least those that I could. Mary Queen of Scots' house and the castle were closed due to the Coronavirus pandemic, but I was able to pre-book a ticket for the abbey ruins, although its nave and tower (i.e. the main bits still standing) were closed due to the risk of falling masonry, which made me wonder if it was being properly maintained. I picked up a leaflet on the town's blue plaque trail and walked around most of that, a lot of famous people I had not heard of were born here. The 16th century bridge across the River Jed I thought particularly attractive. 

Street in Jedburgh.

16th century bridge over River Jed.

In addition I topped up on supplies and booked several nights' accommodation. Only one night will be at a campsite, it might have been two but its owners were all self isolating related to Covid.

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