Drymen to Inversnaid: LEJoG Day 55

Today I was in true highland scenery. After climbing over Conic Hill I walked up the bony banks of Loch Lomond, surrounded by high mountains. 

I made an early start, crossing dashing brooks, cascading down the hillside, and climbing up the side of Conic Hill, scattering sheep in front of me. My reward for the ascent were beautiful views over Loch Lomond, silver under blue skies with scraps of high cloud, the blue mountains of the highlands in the background, getting progressively fainter the further they were away. The West Highland Way does not go quite to the top of Conic Hill before descending into the collection of buildings at Balmaha. At 8:00 am it was too early for the National Park Visitor Centre to be open but some angels were just openning the nearby coffee shop and village store when I arrived. I had a much appreciated orange juice, coffee, banana and sausage bap which set me up for a taxing trek beside Loch Lomond.

The walk was more difficult than one might imagine. Due to promontories and the steep sides of the valley the rocky path had frequent climbs and descents. Nevertheless it was made enjoyable thanks both to the views across the water of the loch, and the green woodland that lies on the valley side. The latter was a mixture of oak, birch, rowan and pine, with an understorey of bracken and other ferns. Managed in a "natural" way, rather than cutting down trees for commercial use they seemed to be left to grow as much as they wanted and then on falling over, maybe on some stormy night, were left to rot and enrich the environment. Old, collapsed walls from some earlier existence were coated in moss with ferns growing from crevices, melting into the general greenness. Active measures were being taken in some places to encourage a mixed woodland of native species, for example by destroying any rhododendron bushes introduced from other countries. Catching my eye were two red squirrels, one chasing the other up a tree.

Loch Lomond on a particularly clear day.

Woodland beside the loch.

There were a few car parks, campsites and buildings, a Youth Hostel at Rowardennan, a hotel at Inversnaid. Although campsites were nominally full, one indicated it was open for backpackers. However I had a plan in my head and kept on up the side of the loch. The latter parts of the path were particularly narrow and onerous, climbing up and down over boulders, although in places steps had been constructed to assist and wooden bridges spanned cascades of water, tumbling, splashing down over rocks. 

Having covered 32 kilometres (20 miles) I stopped at a flat spot by the edge of the loch, evidently used by others judging by the ashes of an old fire surrounded by stones, and a collection of branches suggesting someone was intending to return. Hot and sticky with perspiration the cool water of the loch looked so irresistible that I stripped off and waded in. It was too shallow near the shore for a swim and I did not want to walk too far out for fear of embarrassing someone with the sight of my naked body, but I submerged myself in the gorgeous cool water and enjoyed a feeling of freshness. Out on the loch jet skis zoomed around, going nowhere in particular. Someone practiced water skiing. A man passed by on a paddle board. Earlier there were waterbuses and boat tours. Initially there was a slight breeze to distribute the midges but now that has dropped. I have moved inside my tent, the mesh of the inner tent protecting me from their relentless attack. As I lie on my sleeping bag, I can here the traffic from the other side of the loch; cars, lorries and the occasional train, so not quite in the wilderness yet!

Mountains above Loch Lomond as the sun drops lower in the sky.