Tuesday, June 29, 2021

Inversnaid to Tyndrum: LEJoG Day 56

After more slow walking over rocks and tree roots I left Loch Lomond behind me, enjoyed breakfast at Beinglas campsite and followed a good path to Tyndrum.

Waking at 5:30 am I needed a pee. In my sleepiness I forgot that a cloud of midges would be waiting for me, and as I stood there in my underpants my legs were viciously attacked. Unfortunately some things cannot be rushed and I suffered for my lack of forethought. Leaving the tent later I prepared by wearing my trousers and long sleeved shirt, by liberally applying insect repellent to my hands and by wearing a mosquito net on my head. I had bought the head net some years before and while it might have been effective against mosquitoes the mesh was too large to prevent a sustained midge attack. Pulling the tent down and packing at speed I was soon on my way. By walking I could keep ahead of the midges as I climbed over rocks, wooden bridges, up a ladder and across streams. There were a few more wild campers on the loch's shores, still asleep as I went by, or poking their head out, hair unbrushed. After meadows, trees and a bothy (where a few people stayed) I reached the sanctuary of the Beinglas campsite.

Early morning at the north end of Loch Lomond.

What joy! Toilets, coffee and a cooked breakfast. I asked for a large coffee, so the man serving gave me two mugs! Almost immediately on drinking a little a headache brought on by caffeine withdrawal disappeared. There were a few people in the campsite café and I was to see them and others during the day as I passed them as they rested or they passed me as I took a photo. Many were using baggage transfer services. The path mainly followed General Wade's military road, built to move troops quickly if the Highlanders were revolting, so the surface was good as it went through fields and forestry. I admired a pink flower that my PlantNet App decided was a heath spotted-orchid. I admired the sunlight reflecting off the mica in the rocks of schist on the road, like pieces of ruckled, sequined cloth. I pointed them out to a passing hiker but sometimes long distance walkers seem more interested in covering the ground than what is on it or around them.

View from the West Highland Way.

Approaching Tyndrum.

With the sun oppressively hot, my thermometer reading 33 degrees centigrade, I was glad that there was a shop selling Coke and Ice Cream at the Wigwam campsite a few kilometres before Tyndrum.
At Tyndrum the campsite owner grumbled that I had not pre-booked as due to Covid restrictions tent numbers were limited. However there was room for me and I am now pitched, showered and trying out the "Micro headnet" that I bought at Beinglas farm. It claims to keep out midges, and the fine mesh seems to work as I can see them crawling on the outside, but it touches my nose and other points giving at least the sensation of insects on my skin, so it is still on probation. I walked into Tyndrum, there is not much in this settlement; a hotel, some B&B's, cafés and shops for visitors, including the "Green Welly" shop, in which I could not see any wellies, green or otherwise. I repaired to TJ's Diner to listen to Elvis while eating a burger.

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